St. Bartholomew the Great, Expectations

A Hidden Church In The City

I visited St. Bartholomew the Great on a blisteringly hot summer day and this out-of-the-way building was a refuge from both the heat and the noise of the city. The church is part of a collection of buildings dedicated in name to St. Bartholomew, that are located at West Smithfield only a few-minute walk from St. Paul’s Cathedral. Although possibly falling under the category of ‘hopeless romantic’ myself, I still haven’t seen ‘Four Weddings and a Funeral’ and St. Bart’s was featured as the venue for the fourth wedding in the movie.

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Once inside the foyer, I was greeted by a friendly member of staff that took payment for entry into the church (£4 for adults and an extra £1 to take photographs within the church) and he handed out an information sheet on the features of the church. I was a little surprised at the entry fee, but considering the age of the building, I guess history just doesn’t always come for free.

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An info map on the layout of the church, the website can be found here.

One of the first installations to catch the eye once you enter through the door is a Damien Hirst piece entitled ‘Saint Bartholomew, Exquisite Pain‘. Now, some of Hirst’s pieces can be considered garish and overly extravagant, but I think that this 8-foot tall statue made from bronze and gilded in gold… proves that statement more than a little true. Regardless, the darkness of the church and the light from above definitely made this piece seem divine in its nature.

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As you move further into the heart of the church, you begin to appreciate the size of the building of which you stand. The front of the church is deceptively misleading when compared to the dimensions of what awaits you inside. With the limited sunlight and glowing inside lighting, you can’t help but feel like you have travelled back in time to a medieval setting; the only thing missing would be the haunting chorus of humming or chanting.

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The Tomb of Sir Walter And Lady Mary Mildmay.

Once at the back of the church, in the sanctuary, seating was offered as a member of staff played a 10-minute DVD on the history of the church. Admittedly, the film had not quite aged so well, but the information was interesting enough and the quote from the epitaph of John and Margaret Whiting was bleakly humorous in itself:

She first deceased, he for a little tried.
To live without her, liked it not, and died.

I didn’t have too long to stay and appreciate my surroundings as it was soon off to another venue within West Smithfield, but St. Bart’s is definitely a church that I would visit again and definitely one for those who like to take photographs.

Just remember folks: ‘Do the Bart, man.’ 

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